Building the board

Using the digit layout, set out the board and use a jig saw to cut out each section.  We used the plastic surrounds as a template to draw around, so i don’t have a scale design to share.

We cut down our ply board to 1.91 meters long, and this still allowed us plenty of room for the digits and the text.  Take care cutting out the holes for the modules.  We used a module to check each hole after we cut them out.  You want enough play in the hole to allow the module to pass through freely.

IMG_0192          layout

Once cut out, we slopped on a first coat of black paint.  We bought weathershield black silk, which can be used as an undercoat as well.  Spend time sealing the edges of the board as these will be exposed to the weather.


After giving the scoreboard a second coat of paint, add 2″ x 4″ frame around outside of the board.  Note that the 2″ x 4″s are installed to create a 4″ deep box in which we can add the electronics.  Note, the board is upside down in the above image.

Now screw in the LED modules.  Note that we has a plastic mount made by Ian M, which the modules screwed in to.  The plastic mount is then attached to the back of the board with some short screws.  The same feat can be achieved with hardboard or by using hot melt glue to glue the modules in to the holes.

IMG_0222  IMG_0221
Once installed, we wired the system up using the wiring diagram from the build the circuit page.  Note that we installed two additional 2″ x 4″ braces across the board to stiffen the structure up.

We used a lot of cable ties and hot melt glue to attach the wireless hub, 12 volt converter and the arduino and raspberry pi in the IP66 box.

Note how the circuit boards are mounted used screws and nylon spacers to prevent them from shorting against the plastic.

Also note that the digits are wired for left to right (as you look from the front).  The top line of digits is wired to pins 2 [SRCK], 3 [SERIN] and 4 [RCK] on the arduino, with pins 5 [SRCK], 6 [SERIN] and 7 [RCK] wired to the bottom line.

The wiring order of the top line should be:

batAHundreds, batATens, batAOnes, totalHundreds, totalTens, totalOnes, batBHundreds, batBTens, batBOnes

The wiring order of the bottom line should be:

wickets, oversTens, oversOnes, targetHundreds, targetTens, targetOnes

IMPORTANT NOTE:  It is important that at this stage you have your wiring checked by a qualified electrician before you plug the power supply in to mains power.  Keep everyone safe, by preventing electrical shock and fire!

Once wired up, give it a test!

Before attaching the back, use some black silicon to seal up the top third of the board to keep the water out of the electrics installed at the top.  Our scoreboard is put up at the start of every game, and taken down afterwards to protect it from the worst of the elements, but its still best to try and seal it up.  Other approaches are to house the completed board in some sort of shed or permanent structure to keep the water away.


Stick on the vinyl lettering and attach the amber acrylic covers and build the surrounds (we used the plastic covers made by Ian M).  In the most recent build we used a full sheet of green plastic, covered by a black plastic surround with the segments cut out.


Ian M used a Gravograph machine to cut out the plastic.  Images of the plastic design are in the digitdesign zip file.  Details of the plastics used can be found in the what you need page.